Do you have a favourite type of project when you want to just play with small amounts of fabric? I like zipper pouches for that reason. They make great gifts and they're perfect for a couple different fat quarters or even scraps. They're also a great project if you're new to sewing, or new to zippers. Daryl from Fabric Spark sent me this gorgeous bundle to play around with, and she gave me an extra set so I could share with one of my readers - she even included 3 zippers! Details on how to win after the tutorial. Fabric Spark offers such beautifully curated fabrics. There are plenty of pre-selected fat quarter bundles to choose from, but if you'd like a custom bundle, just ask and it can be set up for you!
I made these 3 different zipper pouches and I'm sharing a tutorial on how to make each one. I'll give a detailed tutorial for the reverse applique pouch (shown with Tula Pink Eden), and then show the variations to make the gathered and rounded.
Reverse Applique Zipper Pouch
This technique is a fun way to change up a simple zipper pouch.
You'll need:
Once you have the pieces cut, fuse the interfacing to one piece of the solid fabric. On the wrong side (the interfaced side) trace a hexagon where you'd like it, keeping at least 1/2" away from the edges. Draw a second line about 1/2" inside the hexagon; this inner line will be the one we'll cut, so mark it as a dotted line or use a different colour so you don't accidentally cut the wrong line. Now cut the inner hexagon, then make notches at each corner, meeting the outer line, but don't cut through the main hexagon shape.
You'll need:
- 8" W x 6.5" H accent fabric (exterior back)
- scrap piece accent fabric
- 8" W x 6.5" H solid fabric - cut 3 (2 lining and one exterior front)
- 8" W x 6.5" H fusible fleece or batting (optional) - cut 2
- 8" W x 6.5" H + scrap piece woven interfacing - I like Pellon Shapeflex 101 (optional) -cut 1
- 1/4" wide sewable double sided tape or fusible webbing, such as Wondertape (optional)
- 7" zipper
- hexagon template or ruler (about 3")
Once you have the pieces cut, fuse the interfacing to one piece of the solid fabric. On the wrong side (the interfaced side) trace a hexagon where you'd like it, keeping at least 1/2" away from the edges. Draw a second line about 1/2" inside the hexagon; this inner line will be the one we'll cut, so mark it as a dotted line or use a different colour so you don't accidentally cut the wrong line. Now cut the inner hexagon, then make notches at each corner, meeting the outer line, but don't cut through the main hexagon shape.
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After the shape is cut out, press the cut edges back, so wrong sides are together. Here is where using Wondertape can come in handy. Turn over your main piece and make sure the cut opening looks nice and even, adjust as necessary. Now cut a piece of your accent fabric larger than the opening, so a 3.5" hexagaon would work here. Place the main piece over your cut piece so the (hexagon) hole is filled in with the accent fabric. You can use a bit of Wondertape here again to help hold the accent fabric in place.
Once you're happy with the placement, fuse a scrap of interfacing over the back to help secure and stabilize before you stitch in place. This step is optional but I prefer it. Now topstitch from the right side. I chose a contrasting thread and increased my stitch length.
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You can go ahead with construction of the zipper pouch now, but I thought it would be fun to add another hexagon. I cut out a small hexagon, folded in the raw edges and stitched in place on top of my main fabric. If you chose to add fusible fleece, fuse it to both exterior pieces now.
Construction of Zipper Pouch
Place one lining piece right side up on work surface, then place zipper right side up centered on top of lining piece. Place your exterior front panel (the one with the applique) right side down onto zipper. So now your zipper should be sandwiched at the top of one exterior and one lining piece, with fabrics right sides together.
Using your zipper foot, sew along the top edge with 1/4" seam allowance. Now place those fabrics wrong sides together so the zipper is at the top, press and topstitch.
Now repeat these steps to attach the exterior back and remaining lining panel to the other half of the zipper. Just make sure to keep right side of zipper (top of teeth) to the right side of the exterior.
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It should look something like this before you topstitch the other side along the zipper.
Open your zipper about halfway. For this step, we need to match exterior to exterior, and lining to lining, right sides together, with the zipper in the middle. Pin or clip all the way around. Your zipper teeth will need to point toward the lining. Leave a 4-5" gap at the bottom of the lining; this will be the turning gap for later. Starting at one side of the turning gap in the lining, sew all around the perimeter, back to the other end of the turning gap, making sure to backstitch at start and stop. Use a 1/2" seam allowance here. If you are using a 7" zipper, you should just miss the metal stops with this seam allowance but be careful as you sew over the zipper to avoid the metal stops. If you're using a longer zipper, just trim the zipper tape once you've sewn around.
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Trim your corners, being sure not to cut your stitching. Use the turning gap to bring the pouch right side out. You'll be glad you had your zipper open at this stage. Tuck the edges of the turning gap into the lining, press and pin or clip in place and stitch with a very small seam allowance and a matching thread. You may choose to hand sew with blind stitch instead.
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Tuck the lining back into the pouch and give it a final press, then fill it with goodies or give it to a friend!
Gathered Pouch
Gathering is a quick, easy way to create an elegant look. Pair a busy print with a solid colour to make a fancy zippered pouch. For this pouch, you'll need
- 12" W x 4.5" H (or wider for more gathers) of bottom exterior fabric - cut 2
- 8" W x 2.5" H top band fabric - cut 2
- 8" W x 6.5" H lining fabric - cut 2
- 8" W x 6.5" H fusible interfacing - cut 2 (optional)
- 7" zipper
Cut out all pieces and fuse interfacing to lining pieces. Run a basting stitch (very long stitch length) 1/8" along top and bottom of each bottom exterior fabric, keeping threads long. Gently pull bobbin thread on the top of one side of the bottom exterior piece while keeping the other side in place. This will "gather" the fabric. Move the gathers as you like and match up the width to the top band fabric (8"). Repeat for the bottom, and then on the other exterior bottom piece.
Now place the top band right sides together with the top of the gathered piece and sew together with a 1/2" seam allowance; press seam up toward top band and topstitch along top band. Repeat for remaining gathered piece and top band. Put together zipper pouch following directions under "Construction of Zipper Pouch" above.
Rounded Pouch
This rounded pouch comes together quickly and is so cute and fun! The size of fabric you need will depend on what you use to create your circle - two 10" x 10" squares should be big enough for the bottom. I used a plate to make a circle, then drew a line at the top of the circle that was 8" across. Cut along that line and use the bottom of the circle as your "pattern piece" and cut 2 fabric of that shape. Also cut 2 top bands (I like coordinating solids for these) 8" W x 2.5" H.
Just as directed in the gathered pouch instructions, attach the top band to the bottom round piece with a 1/2" seam allowance, press seam up toward the top and then topstitch. Use these pieces to trace your lining and optional interfacing pieces.
Continue making pouch as per instructions in "Construction of Zipper Pouch." Sewing up the turning gap is a bit tricky on this one because you'll be tucking in the lining on a curve.
Now for the Giveaway!
Good luck everyone! If you enjoyed the tutorial, I'd love to hear about it and see pictures of your finished projects. If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.
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