Necessary Clutch Wallet Sew-along Day 3

Here we are again! I really challenged myself with the turn lock yesterday! Challenges are nice sometimes though.  I've updated Day 2 with some tips for installing the turn lock. 

If you missed it, here's Day 1, and Day 2.
Let's follow along with Lisa as she moves on with hers. 

You made it to day 3 - congrats!  Today we’re going to work on the card slot pockets and the zipper pockets in preparation for day 4 when we’ll be putting it all together.

Let’s start with the card slot pockets.  You’ll need your two long pieces of interfaced fabric.  Flip it over so that the interfaced side is facing you and the pretty side is down. You’ll need to mark your folding lines with a water soluble or erasable sewing marker or tailor’s chalk.  I use Frixion pens which are fabulous. The ink disappears with the steam of your iron!
Use your marking tool of choice to mark the folding lines starting from the left side of the fabric – 2.5”, 1.75”, 2.25”, 1.75”, 2.25”, 1.75”.  There will be an extra piece on the right side – don’t worry about that. You should have six lines.

Now flip your fabric over so the pretty side is toward you and the first line is on the right side.  This accordion style folding seems to vex people a bit so go slow, take your time. Fold the fabric back on the first line (pretty side to pretty side). Finger press. Then fold to the back (interfaced side to interfaced side) on the next line. Do this two more times and you will have formed the three slot pockets.  Pin in place so they don’t shift and press. Repeat with the other long piece.

Tip: Here's a video from Janelle of Emmaline making the folds for the pocket.

Once you’ve pressed the folds, you can remove the pins.  Take the pockets back to your sewing machine and top stitch along the top edge of each pocket about 1/8” from the edge.  Refold the pockets and stay stitch along each side about 1/8” from the raw edge.  Don’t stitch any further in or your stitching could show in your finished wallet.

After you’ve stay stitched the pockets it’s time to trim them up.  Trim off the long, unfolded edge on each one so the pocket is 4 ½ inches by 8 inches. At this point put your two sets of card slots together, pretty side to pretty side and sew a ¼” seam along the bottom edge.  Make sure that your pockets are facing outwards from the seam. Your finished piece will be 8” wide by 8.5” tall.

Now it’s time to make your long pockets into 12 card slots by sewing a line straight down the middle of the pocket.  Use a marker to draw your line for accuracy. You may also want to double stitch this line to reinforce the pocket seam.

Take the 8”x8.5” rectangle without interfacing and put it pretty side up.  Put the card slot pockets pretty side down on top of it.  Sew the top and bottom seams ONLY, turn and press. Now top stitch all the way around and you're done with this step! Yes, you will have raw edges on each side – it’s okay…trust me.

For the zipper pocket I highly recommending zipper tabs to keep the zipper tape out of the seam area but this is a personal choice.  There are lots of great zipper tab tutorials online.  I use 2 x 2 inch pieces of fabric folded like double bias tape and wrap each end of my zipper. This is optional though – you can use just a plain, regular old zipper without tabs for your zip pocket.

Put one of your pocket linings (smaller pieces) pretty side up on the table.  Lay the zipper on top, edges flush.  You can pin or clip here.  I use double sided tape (Wondertape) to keep the zipper from slipping around.  It’s amazing for zippers.  Place one outside pocket piece pretty side down on top of the zipper forming a zipper sandwich (lining, zipper, outside pocket), and sew with a ¼” seam along the top edge.  If you’re having trouble getting around your zipper, sew up a bit and then move the zipper pull down past your stitching.

Flip both your pieces away from the zipper teeth, press and topstitch.  Repeat this process on the other side.  If you need to, clip your zipper ends so they are flush with the edge of the fabric at this point.

Push the two lining pieces together (right side to right side), and the two outside pieces together (right side to right side).  You will have a long rectangle with the zipper in the middle.  Before you begin to sew – open your zipper at least half way.  DON’T FORGET THIS.  Really, don’t…you’ll be happier. Pinch the zipper tape and tabs if you did them towards the pocket outside fabric and pin or clip all around.

Now use a ¼” seam and sew around three edges starting at the right top of the lining and going around the outside pieces and pack up to the left corner of the lining.  Do not sew across the bottom of the lining – this will be closed later in the construction.

Turn everything right side out and push the lining inside. Yes, the bottom will be open but don’t worry – we’ll close this later…I promise. Put your pockets aside ready for Day 4 when we’ll be putting everything together! 

Tomorrow we finish the wallet, leaving Day 5 for optional straps! We're almost there! Make sure to share your progress on social media so we can all see! Use #HappyOkapiNCWSAL