Hey Mercedes Sewalong Day 2

Welcome to Day 2 of the Hey Mercedes Sewalong. If you need to catch up, head over to Day 1 to get started. Here's a recap of what the sewalong will look like:

• Day 1: Preparing the pattern, cutting the fabric and interfacing, and fusing the interfacing
• Day 2 (that's today): Sewing handles and handle connectors, and creating pockets
• Day 3: Final assembly of bag
  

Please note: this sewalong is meant as an additional guide to the pattern instructions found in Windy City Bags; please read through pattern instructions in the book as well.

Handles

Making the handles for the bag is similar to making double fold bias binding. Start by taking one interfaced handle piece and fold in half, matching long sides, press in the centre, then unfold and bring those long, raw edges to meet in the centre, press in place, then fold again, matching long folded edges. Topstitch along both long edges about 1/8" away from the edge. I like to increase my stitch length here for a smoother, neater look. Repeat with other handle to have 2 completed handles.

Handle Extenders

We'll need 4 matching sets of handle extenders. Since you cut them in pairs, you should have 4 sets that match up quite well in mirror image. One you've paired them up, pin or use wonderclips to hold them sides together, and sew together, leaving the short straight edge unsewn. The book suggests that leaving a turning hole further up the curved edge may help turn the extender later, but I have a trick that will make turning these so easy, so just go ahead and see all the way around except the short straight edge at the bottom. You'll want to follow the curve with your stitching, so take your time here. You may need to use smaller stitch lengths to get around corners nicely, and stop with your needle in the down position to lift your pressed foot and turn the fabric. Once you've sewn all 4 handle extenders, you'll need to trim the seam allowance, and clip into the curves and notch around outer curves, as shown in the book. You could also just trim the seam allowance with pinking shears to speed this step up a bit. Watch this video to see how easy it is to turn the handle extenders. I used a spool of thread and a chopstick; you can use similar items from your sewing supplies too!

Update: some people weren't able to watch the embedded video, so I've loaded it to YouTube and hopefully that helps.

Once the handle extenders are all turned, use the chop stick or similar tool to push out the seams nicely, then press and topstitch.

Front Pocket

Press the piece of bias trim in half, matching long edges, wrong sides together, and pin to the top of the exterior pocket. The raw edges of the trim should match the top raw edges of the pocket; baste the trim onto the pocket with a 1/8" seam allowance. Place lining front pocket right sides together on the exterior pocket, sandwiching the bias trim in between along the top of the pocket and sew together with a 1/4" seam allowance.

Now clip into the curves, making sure not to cut into the stitching. Then turn right side out, with pocket pieces wrong sides together and the folded edge of the trim along the top of the pocket. Press and topstitch along the top 1/8" from the seam.

Now fold the bag front and pocket in half vertically to find the centres. Then place the pocket on the front of the bag, matching centres and bottom edges of the bag front and pocket. Baste in place with a 1/8" seam allowance along the sides and bottom of pocket.

Zippered Pockets

Refer to pages 86-88 of Windy City Bags for additional tips for installing the zippered pockets. Place a lining panel right side up on your work surface, then place a lining pocket down on the lining, right sides together. Measure up 1.5" from bottom of the lining panel and line up short edge of lining pocket along the 1.5" measurement from the bottom. Pin the lining pocket in place.  Now draw a side-centred rectangle starting 7.5" from the top short edge of the lining pocket. The rectangle will be 8" wide and 1/2" tall.

Sew along the rectangle you just drew. I find using a smaller stitch length here allows me to make sharper corners. Once sewn, draw small triangles inside each short end of the rectangle and draw a horizontal line centred in the rectangle, connecting the tips of the triangles. Now cut along the horizontal line, and into the corners just up to the stitching in the corners, but not through the stitching. Now we want to bring the lining pocket through the opening we just cut to the back of the lining. It may help to press before you pull the pocket through. Take your time here and press well once the pocket is through.

Before I place my zipper, I like to use double sided tape, like Wonder Tape, that can be sewn through. It really helps to hold the zipper in place while I'm sewing and helps prevent wobbly stitching of the zipper box. Some people glue baste their zippers, and others just pin in place. I've also used scotch tape sparingly to hold my zippers in place, then carefully removed it after sewing. The idea is that you want your zipper to keep still in just the right spot while you're sewing, so try a few different methods until you find one you like the best. Once you've positioned the zipper, then you'll need to sew it in place. Depending on the zipper you used, you may wish to switch to a zipper foot here. Stitch all around the box with a small seam allowance; approximately 1/16" would be good. Once the box is sewn, fold up your pocket and stitch around remaining 3 sides. You'll need to fold the lining panel out of the way so that you don't sew through it - trust me on this one.

Repeat for remaining zipper, pocket and lining panel, and you're all done for Day 2! See you back here for Day 3 to finish the bag! Please share your progress using #HeyMercedesSAL on Instagram.