I have so much to share with you today! It's been in the works for a while and now I can finally show you. I had a chance to play with this brand new collection: Elixir, from Camelot Fabrics, available now at Stay Home Fabrics. If you love the collection as much as I do, you're in luck, because you have a chance to win a bundle, plus discount details later on in this post.  I made a Blue Calla Tansy Zippered Tote, and guest blogged all about it over at Purse Palooza happening on the Sew Sweetness blog.

P.S. You can save 10% on the Tansy with code OKAPI10 at checkout

You probably know by now, I love testing new patterns for designers. I was happy the timing was right when Swoon Sewing Patterns Pearl Wallet Clutch became available to test. Pearl is part of the Vintage Collection, which is such a great value and I highly recommend it. It's so fun each month anticipating the next pattern!

Pearl really has everything you need: card slots, bill slots, and zippered pocket, plus a detachable wristlet strap. The bill fold is technically detachable, but really only designed that way to make it easier to sew. Here is my test Pearl. You can see where the billfold attaches to the main pouch with a magnetic snap. I used regular magnetic snaps, because that's what I had plenty of, but I would suggest following the pattern, and using thinner snaps. For my next Pearl, I tried using a Kam snap for the hidden magnetic snap, since Kam snaps are so strong, but I couldn't get my pliers to reach that far into my piece, so I just stuck with magnetic snaps.

When I tested this pattern, I didn't have too many pictures of the finished product to go by, so it really was a bit of blind faith in the pattern. Alicia really hit a home run with this one though, and her instructions were flawless again, so I didn't run into any problems. The key to this pattern for me was reading carefully and paying attention to the diagrams. It really came together quickly. That's saying a lot for me, since I'm really slow at sewing.

For this one, I wanted to try using a vinyl tab, because I made this wallet to match the Tansy Zippered Tote, which has quite a bit of vinyl. I failed miserably at just using the stabilizer pattern piece as a template for my vinyl tab and having exposed edges. I just couldn't get my pieces to line up nicely during sewing. So I cut one piece of vinyl and one piece of interfaced cotton, and continued as directed in the pattern. I love how it turned out and suggest that method for others. I think compared to my first Pearl with just the cotton tab, this one looks more professional.

Since first seeing sneak peeks of this collection from  Camelot, I just knew I had to have it. The colors are really me! These colours combined with the geometric design really make it a winning collection for me. Just look at how funky those Triangles are in the card slots of Pearl! The Broken Herringbone makes for a wonderful binding too!
Here are the items I made with a few prints from Elixir:

My sponsor Stay Home Fabrics has generously offered up a FQ bundle of 8 prints from the Elixir line. There are several ways to enter. Contest closes November 2 at midnight PST (so you have until Sunday night to enter). Stay Home is also offering my readers (that's you!) 10% off your order using promo code rpelixir valid through November 3rd at midnight.

Good luck everyone!

I've been just about bursting at the seams to share this project here! Sara of Sew Sweetness has come up with another winner of a pattern: the Filigree Double Zip Pouch.

I jumped at the opportunity to test this one because I saw that Sara offered instructions for how to add ribbon to the bag. I've had some Renaissance Ribbon in my stash for a while, but wasn't really sure of a nice way to add it to my projects. Not to mention the functionality of a pouch with 2 separate zippered compartments.

Here's what you can expect from the pattern:

• 3 different sizes included in pattern
• instructions for how to quilt exterior of bag (optional)
• instructions for adding ribbon to exterior of bag (optional)
• step-by-step instructions
• color photos for most steps in the process

I think this pattern is suitable for a confident beginner.

I had so much fun making this bag! There were a few firsts for me. I've never quilted vinyl before, and actually the pattern doesn't call for vinyl, but I found this silver vinyl remnant and wanted to give it a try. I decided lime green thread would be really out there: crazy enough to tie in the Tula Pink fabric and ribbon to the silver vinyl. I'm pretty pleased with the result! As I mentioned earlier, digging in to my Renaissance Ribbon stash was also a first, and I'm so happy to have found the perfect project for the rest of my stash. The pattern walked me through both techniques quite nicely.
Word to the wise: if you're going to use vinyl like I did, be smarter than me and make the zipper tabs out of cotton. They weren't impossible in vinyl, but would have been nicer in cotton.

I need to talk about this bag! I made the large, and look at all the stuff that fits in there! Those are all full size products, and there was room for more. I could just about fit my iPad in there, but not quite.  You could easily use the large as a toiletry bag, with your hair products in one side, and makeup in the other. Sara is also genius enough to suggest using 2 different zipper colors in order to differentiate each side of the pouch. The pouch uses a foam stabilizer, so your items have a bit of padding, plus the bag maintains its shape and adds a lovely quilting effect.

I also love that you can use a few different fabrics for this pouch, and it really doesn't require a whole lot. I got both these Tula Pink prints from Fabric Spark, and the Sea Debris in Seaweed (left) is actually one of my all time favourites, but it's out of print, so I don't want to use up a big chunk of it all at once.

The bag has a side/bottom panel, which allows it to stand up on its own and makes the pouch a bit roomier as well.

I can't wait to make more of these, in the other sizes too! The small is going to be perfect in my purse, and I think the medium makes a really nice craft pouch. Any of the three sizes would make amazing gifts.

Quilting and adding the ribbons took a fair amount of time, but those are optional features, so I feel this bag can be a really quick sew, if you make it without the quilting and ribbons. I'm going to try a few in cotton next, and maybe some more adventurous quilting.

• Anna Maria Horner and Tula Pink Renaissance Ribbons, available at Hawthorne Threads
• Zipper tape and pulls from Paccana
• Zipper Charms from Tonic and Lime Designs
• Quilting cotton lining fabrics are both Tula Pink designs from Fabric Spark
• Pellon Flex Foam, available at Funky Monkey Fabrics

The pattern is now available, so head on over to Sew Sweetness and pick up a copy.
What will you put in yours?

Welcome back and thanks for joining us for the final day of the Iris Sewalong.  Here's a recap:

• Day 1  - Fabric, interfacing, and hardware selection and gathering. Printing of pattern, and cutting and fusing fabric and interfacing.
  
• Day 2 - We begin sewing the bag.
• Day 3 (that's today!) - Final assembly and completion of bag.
  

Line up the bottom edges of the assembled exterior panels. Stitch in place.

Fold seams open and topstitch.

Bring panels right sides together again and clip or pin in place and sew along each side, starting at corner of top band and ending at bottom corner, leaving notch unsewn. Pay special attention to where the top band meets the main panel, try to match those up on each side.

To sew the boxed corners, match a side seam with a bottom seam and fold notched corner, creating a straight line, clip in place and sew. Repeat for other corner.

Turn exterior bag right side out.

Take strap connectors and fold in half, inserting a D ring (or O-ring, as I'm using), then baste in place centered at each side seam.

Just as you did on the exterior, place lining top band right sides together on lining main panel, matching wide edge. Stitch in place. I like to press my pieces in half to make a crease and match the creases so my pieces line up nicely. Press seam allowance up toward the top of the bag and topstitch the seam.

Create the slip pocket by folding pocket piece in half right sides together to form a long folded piece, stitch raw edges together, turn tube right side out, press and topstitch the seam you just made, leaving the folded edge pressed crisply.

Place the slip pocket piece, folded edge at the bottom on the right side of a lining panel, about 1" above the corner notch. I used a marker and ruler to create a line so my pocket goes on straight, pin and sew in place along folded edge. Flip over with wrong side up and baste pocket along edge of lining, then trim excess pocket piece. Sew dividing lines in slip pocket as desired.

For the zippered pocket, place one pocket piece right side down on remaining lining panel, just below top band and pin in place. Draw a rectangle starting about 1" below the top of the piece, and centred. The pattern calls for 8" wide and 3/8" high, but you can adjust per your zipper. I use a #5 zipper, so I make my rectangle 1/2" high. Sew along your rectangle, then add the center lines and corner triangle as in the pattern and cut along the lines you just drew, being very careful in the corners to get as close as possible without cutting your stitching.

Pull the pocket through to the back and press the hole open so you can't see the pocket from the right side of the lining. You may choose to use wonder tape here. Now place the zipper carefully centered over the hole, teeth side down and secure. I use scotch tape and a bit of wonder tape. The scotch tape easily pulls out after stitching. Flip over and make sure the zipper is centered. From the right side of the lining, sew around the hole to secure the zipper. Place the remaining zipper pocket piece right sides together with the piece you've sewn on and clip or pin along all 4 sides and sew in place.

Assemble lining pieces by matching up right sides together and sewing along sides and bottom, leaving a turning hole at the bottom, about 5". I actually prefer to switch to a basting stitch instead of lifting my needle; I still backstitch before and after the turning gap. Sew the boxed corners the same way as the exterior.

To install the magnetic snap for the top closure of the bag, I like to bring the side seams of the bag together in order to find my centers of the top bands. Use clips or pins to hold the seams together while you mark centers. Install the magnetic snap, each half of the snap approximately 1.5" below the centers, including adding pieces of scrap backing to reinforce the snap.

Place exterior bag inside lining bag, right sides together. Match up side seams and centers, then clip or pin in between, including top of bag.

Sew all around the top, around all the curves and corners.

Trim seam allowance and clip corners, but make sure you leave the seam allowance over the turning gap inact. Remove basting stitch at turning gap if you used a basting stitch, and start pulling the bag right side out through the gap. Go slow and you'll get there eventually!

Once you've turned the bag right side out, use a chop stick or similar tool to push out the corners along the top of the bag so they're as sharp as possible. Tuck in the seam allowance at the turning gap, press and sew shut (some people choose to do this by hand with a ladder stitch).

Press along the top of the bag in preparation of topstitching. After pressing, I also use wonder clips to really help hold my seams straight and in place.

Almost done! Now we just have to sew the straps.

For my O-rings, I decided to hold them in place with rivets. Whether you're sewing or using rivets, the process is about the same. Place one ring in a fold of a strap and have the strap fold in toward the inside of the bag about 1.75" down from folded edge - refer to the pattern for more pictures of this step. Sew a rectangle to secure, or use 2 rivets in line. Repeat for remaining rings. To secure my shoulder straps I stitched 2 parallel lines. Make sure your straps aren't twisted, and that the front strap ends up the same length as the back strap. If you chose to leave off the adjustable  strap, you're done!

To sew the adjustable strap, pass one end of the strap through the middle bar of the slide, fold end over and sew in place about 1-2" along the strap. Then take free end of strap and pass it through a swivel clip and then back over the center of the slide and out the other end, then attach remaining swivel clip and sew in place at end of strap by folding edge and stitching parallel lines or box.

Attach adjustable strap with swivel clips to side rings and you're finished!

Enter your completed bag for a chance to win 2 patterns of your choice from Blue Calla and a $25 Gift Certificate to Funky Monkey Fabrics! To enter, post a picture of your completed bag on Instagram with #HappyOkapiBlueCallaSAL
or you can send me a picture of your bag through my contact page. You'll have until November 8 to complete your bag and enter it. The winner will be randomly selected. Be sure to follow my facebook page for updates.

Thanks for joining us as we continue with the Blue Calla Iris Convertible Shoulder Bag sewalong. Here's a recap of the schedule:

• Day 1  - Fabric, interfacing, and hardware selection and gathering. Printing of pattern, and cutting and fusing fabric and interfacing.
• Day 2 -  (that's today!) We begin sewing the bag.
  
• Day 3  - Final assembly and completion of bag
  

A note about this sewalong: this is not meant to replace the pattern's instructions. You will likely need to refer to the pattern for some steps.

I like to start my bags by making the straps. I don't know why, I guess I just like having one part completed early on. I used vinyl for my shoulder straps. I started by drawing a line down the vertical center on the wrong side of the straps. Then I used my wonder tape (called DST in the pattern) on either side of the line - one piece of wonder tape with backing is shown here:

Once wonder tape is in place, fold each outer edge in toward the center line and press down. I used my Hera marker to make a firm crease in the vinyl. Fold again, to match both folded edges, making the piece now 1" wide. Use clips to hold folded edges together. Stitch first along joined edge at about 1/8" seam allowance with a longer stitch length, then repeat along remaining edge; complete these steps for both shoulder straps. Set aside for now. A note about sewing vinyl: if your stitch length is too short, the stitching will perforate the vinyl and make it tear easily; if you want to reinforce your stitching, make sure your backstitch goes through the same stitch holes as the first stitching, or sew a separate row of stitching.

If you're using fabric for your straps, follow these instructions, but omit the wonder tape, and press with an iron with each step involving folding.

Repeat same process for adjustable strap, except creating 1.5" wide strap.

I also like to make my connectors at this point. As mentioned in Day 1, I like to simply sew a 6" long strap and cut in half. The connectors are made the same way as the straps: folding in outer edges to meet in the center, then folding again, to match folded edges, and stitching along each long edge.

For my bag, I have one pocket. If you decided to add a second pocket, just repeat this process to create an additional pocket. To start the exterior of the pocket, we'll be creating a pocket. Place exterior and lining B pieces right sides together and stitch together along the top edge. Turn so they are wrong sides together and topstitch along the top edge (I like a longer stitch length for topstitching). Place assembled piece on top of a middle panel A, matching up bottom and sides, and baste stitch along each side.

Pin or clip one side panel G to each side of the assembled pocket, attach the other 2 side panel Gs to the remaining middle panel A. I do this step all at the same time, as I find it makes it go quicker.

Press each seam allowance toward the side panels and topstitch the seams.

The next step is creating the flap. For my pocket flap, I used vinyl for the "exterior" and interfaced quilting cotton for the "lining". To install the magnetic snap, make a small mark about 1.5" from the bottom of the flap piece, centered side to side on the "lining" flap.

Use the washer that comes with the magnetic snap to mark slits, matching the mark you made as mentioned above in the center of the washer. I like to use my seam ripper to cut tiny slits. You want to make sure the slits aren't too big. You'll also need to reinforce the back of the lining fabric with a scrap piece of foam, fleece, or peltex for the magnetic snaps to go through as well so your material doesn't tear through.

Once your snap is installed, place both flap pieces right sides together and sew along all sides except the top edge. Trim seam allowance and turn right side out, finger press if using vinyl, or press with iron, topstitch. Place assembled flap over assembled exterior panel, aligning between side panel seams, over top of pocket. Baste on place. Now we need to insert the female half of the magnetic snap. This one's a bit trickier! First we need to find the right spot to place it, by marking the male snap reaches on the pocket, then placing our other marks and slits, as above, on the pocket. To insert the snap, we'll need to reach up from the bottom of the pocket and turn it part way inside out to flatten the prongs. Don't forget to reinforce the snap with scrap interfacing.

Now attach the bottom (vinyl) panel to the assembled panels. We are matching the top of the bottom to the bottom of the top, hahaha! Super simple, right? Just make sure the same width is being matched up and you'll be fine. Sew in place and topstitch if desired.

Now it's time to cut out the sew-in interfacing or fusible fleece. Use the assembled panels to trace your interfacing or fleece and cut each out. You can also cut out the top band C at this step; I only interfaced 2 of my top bands. Baste sew-in interfacing at a 1/4" seam allowance, or fuse the fleece in place, being careful to avoid the iron on areas with vinyl. You can either leave the area over the vinyl unfused if you're using fusible fleece, or choose to baste it at a 1/4" seam allowance. I just left mine unfused and it doesn't really make a difference as long as you catch the fleece when you're sewing the bottom at the later step.

To pleat the exterior panels we need to transfer the pleat marks from the pattern piece to the back of our panels. I like to make a small cut in the pattern at the pleat marks, then just use my marker to mark at the correct spot. Because we want our pleats to be mirror images, we'll need to flip the pattern piece once to create the marks. If you're looking at the panel, with wrong side facing up, the pattern should face down when you're transferring pleat marks on the left side, and face up when you're transferring pleat marks on the right side.

PSA: I love Wonder Clips, BUT, I find pins work best for pleats, especially smaller ones such as these, otherwise I find the fabric shifts too much as you're trying to sew the pleat in place. With the wrong side up, starting on the left side, bring the outermost pleat mark inward to the pleat mark next to it, matching up pleat mark and pin in place. Then take the next pleat mark and bring it toward the center to the remaining pleat mark on the left side, pin in place. Repeat with right side of panel, bringing pleat marks toward the center of the panel. Repeat with other assembled panel.

Machine baste in place.

Take a top band C that has interfacing and place right sides together on top edge of the assembled pleated panel, matching wide edges, pin or clip in place. You will have a small triangle of excess in each corner because of the pleating, which you can trim off. Stitch in place, press seam allowance toward top band and top stitch seam at 1/8" seam allowance.

Repeat with remaining assembled pleated panel and interfaced top band. Place all your pieces in a pretty pile and come back tomorrow!

Welcome, and thanks for joining me as we make this fun and fabulous bag! I hope you'll find this sewalong motivating, informative, and enjoyable! Here's what you can expect over the next few days:

• Day 1  (that's today!)- Fabric, interfacing, and hardware selection and gathering. Printing of pattern, and cutting and fusing fabric and interfacing.
  
• Day 2 - We begin sewing the bag.
• Day 3  - Final assembly and completion of bag
  

Let's get started! If you haven't already, go grab a copy of the PDF, and use code OKAPI10 to save 10% (on any pattern, any time!)

You'll also need to gather your supplies. For my bag, I'm using vinyl for the bottom and shoulder straps, and cotton for the rest. I interfaced my lining and pockets with Pellon Shapeflex 101 (fusible cotton woven) and used fusible fleece for my exterior. I wouldn't recommend foam interfacing for this bag, since we're pleating the panels. The pattern suggests using a sew-in batting or duck canvas, which will work too of course. I found some amazing oversized rings at Emmaline Bags and I'm using 1" O-rings instead of 5/8" D-rings. If you can't find hardware to match the requirements exactly, that's ok, I'll address that when we get to cutting.

You'll want to make you print at 100% and measure the test square to make sure it's an accurate printing. I usually just print the pattern pieces out and read the instructions from my tablet; this way I save big on printer ink. You may want to print the pattern pieces that are cut on fold twice, or trace those pieces onto another piece of paper, cut, and tape together at the fold line. I find this helps me get more accurate cuts and lets me visualize my fabric placement a bit better than cutting or tracing on the fold.

Before I get started cutting, I organize my fabrics and pattern pieces and make a small chart for myself. I'm using 3 different exterior fabrics, so the chart helps me keep everything in order and I can make sure all my pieces are cut by checking them off as I go. Here's mine:

You'll note the * next to D ring tab in my chart, that's because I'm lazy so I try to find ways to make bag making faster and easier, so I actually just cut a 6" x 3" piece and sew to make the tab as directed, then cut in half to end up with 2 tabs the same size as in the pattern. You may also notice I interface more than called for in the pattern, and that's just my personal preference; so feel free to interface the lining, as I do, or leave it off, as the pattern does, either way it won't make a difference in assembly of the bag. For example, I cut the interfacing for the slip pocket the same size as the pocket, instead of half. I just like a bit more body to my bags, so I tend to add interfacing even where patterns don't necessarily call for it. 

If you couldn't find the same hardware as listed, you may need to adjust your straps. For example if you only have a 1" slide and swivel clips, you may need to make your strap at a finished width of 1" instead of 1.5" or for your D ring tabs, you'll need to make sure your finished width will fit in the D rings you have. To make a strap or tab, cut it 4x times wide as desired finished width.

You'll need to figure out what length you want for your adjustable strap. A good way to estimate is to take your tape measure and drape across your shoulder as if it were a strap for a cross body bag, then measure how long the strap would need to be: I cut mine at 55", keeping in mind that a few inches will be folded up to attach hardware.

Now that you've got your cutting list sorted out, go ahead and start cutting. I like to start with my Sf101, and fuse that to the pieces that will be interfaced with it, then cutting the fabric out around the interfacing: refer to my laziness above, this allows me to trace my pieces a few less times.

You might be wondering why we aren't cutting a lot of the sew-in or fleece at this point, but it's coming tomorrow, so don't worry, we haven't forgotten it yet.

Once you've cut all your fabric and interfacing, if you haven't fused as you cut, you'll need to do that now. Set all your pieces in a pretty pile and come back tomorrow to start sewing!

I'd love to see your progress! Use #HappyOkapiBlueCallaSAL on Instagram to share.