I've created a quick video to show the rest. I also include directions for creating a double-pull zipper.
I get a lot of questions from other bag makers about my zippers. I often match my zipper pulls to the fabric I'm using, giving the bag an extra special touch. Today I'm sharing exactly how I make my zippers. I start with a #4.5 or #5 zipper tape, then choose the correct size zipper pull of whichever colour I want to match with my fabrics. I really love the By Annie Zipper By the Yard available at Stitch in the Ditch, and I also use the zipper tape and pulls from Paccana.
I've created a quick video to show the rest. I also include directions for creating a double-pull zipper.
Not only do I prefer this method, because of the endless possibilities of custom sizes and colours of zippers, but it's much cheaper than buying these specialty zippers individually. I was able to make a custom coloured 36" double pull zipper for 50 cents! Go forth and make zippers! I'd love to hear what you think.
What is it?
The Thread Cutterz ring is pretty self-explanatory in its title. It's meant to be worn as a ring, to cut thread or even yarn while crafting. The blade is tucked safely away so you don't have to worry about little helpers getting poked or cut, and you don't poke yourself either (not that I've ever done that, nope, not me)! It has an adjustable strap so it can fit fingers of all sizes. It's very light and easy to use. It currently comes in black or pink, but I've seen some preview pictures of green rings on Instagram.
How I'm using it
Crafting with kids
My youngest loves to be independent, and now with the Thread Cutterz ring, he can cut his own string for crafting, and I don't have to worry about him cutting himself. Of course, his older brother thinks it's fun to use as well!
I have a really nice (read: expensive) pair of thread snips that I hardly ever use anymore. They used to get lost on my cutting table under scraps of interfacing and fabric. Now I still use them, but only when I'm finished a project and do my final once-over to make sure there aren't any threads sticking out. My Thread Cutterz ring has become a sewing staple for me!
I'm quite surprised how much I like it. As I said earlier, I half expected it to be just a gimmick, but I honestly don't even like sewing without it anymore! It can get quite close to the fabric to cut the threads precisely, so it is really useful and easy to use. I love not having to search for my thread snips anymore!
Want to try one for yourself? You can order from www.threadcutterz.com and they ship all over the world! You can also follow Thread Cutterz on Facebook and Instagram to learn more about Thread Cutterz and stay in the loop for giveaways and new ring colours!
What do you think of tools like this? Do you have a favourite tool? Do you like to stick to "tried and true" or are you always looking for ways to craft more efficiently? Leave me a comment, or send me an email!
I have plans for a free tutorial , another sew-along, and kid-friendly crafts to share with you over the summer.
I've had my fabrics picked out for this bag pretty much the moment I saw its release as the April Bag for the Bag of the Month Club. The Manhattan bag comes in 2 sizes: the larger Mamma size, and a smaller Miss size. The pattern is from Emmaline Bags, and is the first Emmaline pattern with diagrams. I love the new format! There were still some pictures to help explain some trickier parts.
About the bag: I made the Mamma size and love it as an everyday purse. The adjustable strap can be longer and worn cross body, or shorter as a shoulder bag. For me, the defining feature of this bag is the flap. It's a zippered pocket! I tried something new and used my zipper tape from Paccana and a couple zipper pulls to create a 2-way double pull zipper for this. The flap has 2 magnetic snaps on the underside to help secure the inner bag's belongings. The pattern includes an optional glasses case that is meant to sit (with hook and loop) in the flap. I left it out for this one, but I may give it a try on my next one.
There is a zippered exterior pocket on the back; perfect for keys and other items you need to keep handy, yet safe.
Another unique feature of this bag is the front exterior pocket. The top of the pocket sits under the flap, so it is a pseudo-closed pocket. It's nice and deep. I think I'll use it for my phone!
The lining calls for a slip pocket, and suggests using the same method on the back exterior zippered pocket for additional lining pockets.
Interfacing: I used Pellon Shapeflex throughout and Pellon Thermolam fusible fleece as called for in the pattern. I added Pellon Craft Fuse to my lining for extra firmness.
Fabric: Fabric Spark has a selection of fabric that matches my tastes perfectly! The main fabrics are Echino linen blends: the Buck and Dots for the flap and front, and the Birds and Chevron for the exterior. For the lining fabric, I wanted to match the hot pink in the glasses on the buck, so I emailed Daryl at Fabric Spark and asked her if she could help me find a perfect pink. I had narrowed it down, but just wasn't sure if the colours on my monitor were a true match. She sent me this picture with a few matches, and I thought long and hard about the decision, but finally chose Alison Glass's Lucky Penny Bike Path. This isn't the first time Daryl has gone the extra mile for my order, and yet another reason I continue to support this wonderful Canadian shop.
Review: I really love this bag! The pattern is so well written, I didn't have any hiccups or need any help with it. The zippered flap had me a bit nervous that installing the zipper on the curve wouldn't turn out, but it did! The diagrams in the pattern were so clear, and the few pictures in it were helpful as well. I appreciated the placement markings in the pattern pieces. I find the Mamma size to be perfect to carry everything you need, plus a bit of extra room for other items that are nice to have. It's such a functional bag! I'll definitely be making more. I think the bag could be made a confident beginner. The pattern is currently only available as a set with the Bag of the Month Club, but will be available individually in July.
If you missed the previous days, they can be found here: Day 1, Day 2,Day 3 and Day 4. Today, Lisa explains how to add an optional wrist strap and/or cross body strap.
I showed you how I add the anchors in day 2. There are lots of different ways to do this so experiment with what option you like best.
For the wrist strap and cross body strap you’ll need: 2” x 9” piece of fabric (1), 2” x 42” piece of fabric (1), 3 ½” or 5/8” swivel hooks.
I usually cut the long strap the width of my fabric and just clip off the selvages. This makes it about 42”. If you prefer a shorter strap – cut it to whatever length you like best.
For each of the strap you’ll need to press them in half the long way. Then unfold and press each side in so it meets the centre crease line. Then fold both halves together so your raw edges are hidden inside. The finished strap will be about ½” wide. For the long strap you also need to turn each end in by a ¼”. You can leave the shorter wrist strap ends raw as we’ll finish this in the next step.
Wrist strap: I use Emmaline’s ingenious tutorial (scroll down to step 2) for this step. Take your folded wrist strap and thread your swivel hook onto it. Now open out each end of the strap and pin them pretty side to pretty side. Make sure that your strap is not twisted. Your hook will still be on the strap. Sew the ends together using a ¼” seam and finger press the seam open. Refold along you existing press lines.
Time to top stitch! Again, if you have a top stitching foot it comes in really handy here. If not, sew close to the edge of each side of the strap, sliding the hook along as you sew. When you’ve finished top stitching, Move your hook to the end where your seam line is (where the two ends were joined) and stitch through the seam line to secure your hook. Go back and forth across the strap a couple of times to really secure this.
Crossbody strap: Take your long, double folded piece and top stitch along both sides as you did with the wrist straps. The ends have already been folded under ¼ inch so this will provide you with finished ends for this piece. Be careful when you get to the end, the folded pieces stay under as they like to poke out sometimes.
Once you’ve top stitched both sides you’ll add a swivel hook to each end. Slide the hook onto the
strap, fold over about 1 inch and stitch across the strap close to the bar of the swivel hook. Sew across the strap a couple of times to secure. Repeat on the other end but make sure that you’re folding your strap under in the same direction on both sides.
And you’re done! Attach your straps to your anchors and you can easily swing your wallet on your wrist or carry it on your shoulder like a purse.
Thanks so much Lisa for guiding us along! Her NCW turned out beautifully! Now I'd like to see everyone else's! You have until June 30 to submit your entries for the prize of a $20 shop credit from Emmaline Bags - Thanks Emmaline Bags! Choose any of these ways to enter:
I'd also love to share them here, so let me know if it's ok to do that.
Today we take the exterior we completed in Day 2 and combine it with the card slots and zippered pocket we made in Day 3. First we take the exterior panel with lining side up and center card slots below the flap. You can use wondertape along the underside of the edges to make sure slots don't shift, or just pin in place.
I'm so excited for today; we're finishing the main wallet!
If you missed it, here are the previous days: Day 1, Day 2, and Day 3.
Now fold the rounded sides in over the card slots so that the edge of the card slots line up exactly in the fold of the rounded edge, then pin or clip in place. Once you've made sure all the raw edges of the card slots are inside the fold, sew with a 1/4" seam allowance and a longer stitch length, down both folded edges.
As before, center the zippered pocket under the flap. Now find the center of the pocket and mark with an erasable marking pen, then create a stitch box, by marking a line 1/2" on either side of the center line. Very carefully, stitch a box, using the 1/2" lines on either side of the center line and to within 1/8" from the edge of the pocket piece. This secures the zipper pocket to the wallet, and also closes up the lining of the zipper pocket.
Draw a 3.5" line from one bottom corner of the flap to a point that meets the rounded side edge, then draw a line from the corner of the box stitched in the last step to intersect the first line. Repeat for bottom edge, and again for other side of wallet.
Now using those lines, pinch the rounded side edge around one end of the zippered pouch and clip in place. Sew in place, using a 1/4" seam allowance, being sure to backstitch at start and stop. Repeat for other side of pocket, and again for other half of zippered pouch with the remaining 2 folds, sewing a total of 4 lines at this step. The pattern suggests starting just below the top and backstitching, but depending on your machine and your interfacing choices, it may be easier to start at the bottom and sew toward the top. Make sure to fold the other pieces out of the way so you don't sew through those as well. This can be a bit tricky, but just take your time. It may also be helpful to use a larger needle at this step, a leather or denim needle for instance. Some people also find that their machine simply can't sew through all these layers very well, so opt for rivets at this step. Rivets look nice as well if that works best for you.
You're done! If you chose optional straps, we'll complete them tomorrow in Day 5.
Congratulations! If you made tabs for optional straps, check back tomorrow for those final steps. If you didn't, come back anyway and you might pick up a tip or 2 for your next NCW! Make sure to share your beautiful wallet pictures! Share on Facebook or Instagram with #HappyOkapiNCWSAL or link up here in comments, or email me. Let me know if I can share your projects as well.
Find Day 5 here.
Here we are again! I really challenged myself with the turn lock yesterday! Challenges are nice sometimes though. I've updated Day 2 with some tips for installing the turn lock.
If you missed it, here's Day 1, and Day 2.
Let's follow along with Lisa as she moves on with hers.
You made it to day 3 - congrats! Today we’re going to work on the card slot pockets and the zipper pockets in preparation for day 4 when we’ll be putting it all together.
Let’s start with the card slot pockets. You’ll need your two long pieces of interfaced fabric. Flip it over so that the interfaced side is facing you and the pretty side is down. You’ll need to mark your folding lines with a water soluble or erasable sewing marker or tailor’s chalk. I use Frixion pens which are fabulous. The ink disappears with the steam of your iron!
Use your marking tool of choice to mark the folding lines starting from the left side of the fabric – 2.5”, 1.75”, 2.25”, 1.75”, 2.25”, 1.75”. There will be an extra piece on the right side – don’t worry about that. You should have six lines.
Now flip your fabric over so the pretty side is toward you and the first line is on the right side. This accordion style folding seems to vex people a bit so go slow, take your time. Fold the fabric back on the first line (pretty side to pretty side). Finger press. Then fold to the back (interfaced side to interfaced side) on the next line. Do this two more times and you will have formed the three slot pockets. Pin in place so they don’t shift and press. Repeat with the other long piece.
Tip: Here's a video from Janelle of Emmaline making the folds for the pocket.
Once you’ve pressed the folds, you can remove the pins. Take the pockets back to your sewing machine and top stitch along the top edge of each pocket about 1/8” from the edge. Refold the pockets and stay stitch along each side about 1/8” from the raw edge. Don’t stitch any further in or your stitching could show in your finished wallet.
After you’ve stay stitched the pockets it’s time to trim them up. Trim off the long, unfolded edge on each one so the pocket is 4 ½ inches by 8 inches. At this point put your two sets of card slots together, pretty side to pretty side and sew a ¼” seam along the bottom edge. Make sure that your pockets are facing outwards from the seam. Your finished piece will be 8” wide by 8.5” tall.
Now it’s time to make your long pockets into 12 card slots by sewing a line straight down the middle of the pocket. Use a marker to draw your line for accuracy. You may also want to double stitch this line to reinforce the pocket seam.
Take the 8”x8.5” rectangle without interfacing and put it pretty side up. Put the card slot pockets pretty side down on top of it. Sew the top and bottom seams ONLY, turn and press. Now top stitch all the way around and you're done with this step! Yes, you will have raw edges on each side – it’s okay…trust me.
For the zipper pocket I highly recommending zipper tabs to keep the zipper tape out of the seam area but this is a personal choice. There are lots of great zipper tab tutorials online. I use 2 x 2 inch pieces of fabric folded like double bias tape and wrap each end of my zipper. This is optional though – you can use just a plain, regular old zipper without tabs for your zip pocket.
Put one of your pocket linings (smaller pieces) pretty side up on the table. Lay the zipper on top, edges flush. You can pin or clip here. I use double sided tape (Wondertape) to keep the zipper from slipping around. It’s amazing for zippers. Place one outside pocket piece pretty side down on top of the zipper forming a zipper sandwich (lining, zipper, outside pocket), and sew with a ¼” seam along the top edge. If you’re having trouble getting around your zipper, sew up a bit and then move the zipper pull down past your stitching.
Flip both your pieces away from the zipper teeth, press and topstitch. Repeat this process on the other side. If you need to, clip your zipper ends so they are flush with the edge of the fabric at this point.
Push the two lining pieces together (right side to right side), and the two outside pieces together (right side to right side). You will have a long rectangle with the zipper in the middle. Before you begin to sew – open your zipper at least half way. DON’T FORGET THIS. Really, don’t…you’ll be happier. Pinch the zipper tape and tabs if you did them towards the pocket outside fabric and pin or clip all around.
Now use a ¼” seam and sew around three edges starting at the right top of the lining and going around the outside pieces and pack up to the left corner of the lining. Do not sew across the bottom of the lining – this will be closed later in the construction.
Turn everything right side out and push the lining inside. Yes, the bottom will be open but don’t worry – we’ll close this later…I promise. Put your pockets aside ready for Day 4 when we’ll be putting everything together!
Tomorrow we finish the wallet, leaving Day 5 for optional straps! We're almost there! Make sure to share your progress on social media so we can all see! Use #HappyOkapiNCWSAL
Are you ready to go for Day 2? If not, there's still time to catch up. Read all the details in Day 1's post, here. Lisa is back with more great experience and tips. I'd love to see your progress! Share your pics using #HappyOkapiNCWSAL.
Welcome to Day 2 of the NCW sew-along! Today we’re going to tackle the flap and main body panel of the wallet.
Grab all your beautifully interfaced A, B and D fabric pieces and let’s get started. You’ll also need your Peltex piece C for this step.
Flap: Put your flap pieces pretty sides together and sew all the way around the curved edge with a ¼” seam – leave the bottom (straight edge) open for turning. A quarter inch quilting foot works great for this but if you don’t have one, find the quarter inch mark on your regular sewing machine foot to make sure your seams are as accurate as possible. The NCW uses ¼” seams throughout construction and it’s important to maintain these accurately so the finished pieces go together nicely.
To get a nice, smooth curve, clip the curves with little v-notches. You can clip right up to, but not through, the stitch line. Turn and press. Use a chopstick or smoother to get those rounded corners all the way out as your press.
If you are using an accent border you can prepare that now. This, in my opinion, is optional. I’ve seen lots of beautiful NCWs done without the border accent – just topstitched all the way around the flap. You can also add piping in the step above as another decorative finish.
To make the border piece fuse the Peltex piece C to the wrong side of the fabric border (piece B). At this point you’re going to clip the fabric along all the curves and corners. Clip close to but not right up to the edges of the Peltex for a nice, professional finish. The pattern recommends double sided tape (Wondertape is great). I prefer to use a ¼” fusible tape at this step because it holds better for me. ¼” light weight Steam-a-seam works great for this. Just iron strips along both edges of your Peltex border piece, remove the paper backing, fold over the fabric and iron in place. If you iron under and up over the Peltex the fabric should be nice and tight as you go.
Because I like a firmer wallet, at this point I add another piece of Peltex into the flap. I usually trace around the flap I’ve made and cut the Peltex about ¼ inch inside my tracing line. Then I slip it inside the flap through the back opening. I don’t use fusible Peltex because it will often get a wrinkled look when the wallet flap is bent later.
Line up your accent piece with your flap and topstitch 1/8” from both edges of the flap accent. An edge stitching or top stitching foot is great for this if you have one. Go slow, take your time and it will look fantastic. When you’re done, sit back and admire your awesomeness. Sometimes, when I do this, I think I am a fussy cutting goddess. Other times, I wonder if I may be developing vision problems in my old age.
I give myself a 7/10 on this one…lol! <---Hey Lisa! Don't be so hard on yourself, it looks fantastic!
Time to add your twist lock. The instructions for these vary by manufacturer so it’s best to look up specific instructions for your particular lock. Generally speaking you’re going to cut the hole in the centre bottom of your flap and attach your hardware. On the main body part you will attach the twist part. Be sure to fuse a small piece of peltex where the lock will attach first. Remember that your twist lock goes on the body side OPPOSITE where your flap is attached to the body.
Update: Here is a tutorial from the Emmaline Blog on how to install a turn lock. I've also heard that using your rivet press or seam ripper works well for creating the hole.
Now get ready to attach the flap to the body.
Brief interruption. I like to attach my wrist strap and cross body strap anchors at this point. To make anchors like these you need two pieces of 2”x2 ½” fabric. Fold in half length-wise, and open. Fold each side towards the middle and then fold the whole piece in half. You will end up with two mini straps 2 ½” by ½” wide. You can top stitch the edges at this point if you want. Take a small ½” d-ring and loop the strap through it. Secure the D ring with a line of stitching.
There is also another great strap anchor tutorial on the Emmaline blog if you're looking for another way to attach your wrist and shoulder straps. Straps are optional but make the wallet more versatile in my opinion.
Back to the body and flap. Put your exterior body fabric pretty side up. Make sure the twist lock is at the bottom. Lay the finished flap wrong side up, centred at the top of the main body piece. This is where I add my strap anchors. I put the unfinished bottoms flush with the edge of the flap and body just inside the edge of the flap. The D rings will be towards you.
Sandwich the other piece of the main body pretty side down on top of the flap and secure. The pattern says to leave a 4” opening. I leave an 8.25” opening for turning because I like to insert another piece of Peltex in the main body after turning. Stitch with a ¼” all the way around, leaving your opening, clip, and then pull the flap out through the opening and get everything right side out again. Press. At this point I insert another piece of 8x8 inch Peltex into the opening left for turning, centred in the main body. It adds some additional firmness to the wallet. Turn under the opening edges ¼” on both pieces and top stitch around the entire body piece – closing up your turning hole.
And you’re done Day 2! Put your body piece aside for Day 4. Tomorrow we'll work on constructing the card slot and zippered pockets.
Wow! I'm amazed at how this is coming together! We're almost halfway there now, make sure to come back tomorrow and share your progress on social media.
Are you ready for Day 1 of the Necessary Clutch Wallet Sew-along? I'm going to be following right along with you, and my friend Lisa is sharing her experience making this staple in the PDF pattern world. The Necessary Clutch Wallet, otherwise known as the NCW by its adoring fans, is a stylish wallet that carries your cell phone, cards, cheques, cash and coins, and even has a little room left over. By the end of this week, we'll all have beautiful finished projects to show off! Plus, there's a prize! Janelle of Emmaline Sewing Patterns and Purse Supplies has generously offered up a $20 Emmaline Bags store credit to a randomly selected participant who completes the wallet. I've tried to make it easy to enter, choose any of these options:
You only have to choose one way to enter, and multiple entries will only be counted once. Entries must be submitted by June 30, 2015.
If you haven’t yet purchased this fabulous pattern you can do so at Emmaline Sewing Patterns and Purse Supplies, and make sure to use code CANUCK20 to save 20% on the pattern for this Sew-along, valid until June 30, 2015.
Once you have your pattern in hand it’s time to print it out and select your fabrics!
Materials needed for this project:
I like to keep a cutting chart for the NCW with all my fabrics and what I’ll need to cut from each. Because I often use 3-4 fabrics in each wallet, plus interfacing, it’s a great way to keep track of everything. I check off each item as they are cut so I don’t miss anything.
Once you’ve selected your fabric, it’s time to cut. If you’ve printed the PDF pattern you can use the paper prints for cutting around. If you’re going to do any fussy cutting, you might also consider tracing Pieces A, B and D onto sew through quilters template material or see through plastic cutting boards you can buy at the dollar store. This makes it a lot easier to clearly see your design and placement for your wallet. It can assist you to create that great focal point on the front of your wallet as well. If you think you'll be making many of these, you might want to order the acrylic templates available for the pattern, making it easier and faster to cut, including any fussy cutting you might want to do.
Interfacing tends to be a very personal choice for this wallet. The pattern calls for medium weight interfacing on the flap and body, light weight on the pockets and card slots. My personal preference is for a firmer wallet. I use Pellon SF101 on all my interfaced pieces and add another piece of peltex in the flap and centre part of the body which you’ll see in day 2. I have also used Craft-fuse 808 throughout for a firmer wallet. Experiment to find the blend of interfacings you prefer.
Once you have all your fabrics and interfacings cut out. Stand back, admire your pile and turn on your iron. We’re going to be fusing all our interfacing next! Time to get a quick drink before slaving over that hot iron…
When fusing interfacing, start with a pressed fabric piece. Place the fabric wrong-side up and interfacing glue side down. Fuse with a hot steam iron. I then flip my piece over and make sure to get out any wrinkles that may have shown up.
Once you’ve fused all your interfacing you’re done with day one! Congratulations. On Day 2 we’ll be working on the flap and body.
Thank you so much Lisa! Looks like I have my work cut out for me, ha! (I'm hilarious, I know). I'd love to see everyone else's progress along the way! Share with #HappyOkapiNCWSAL. See you back here tomorrow!
If you have kids in school, you may be looking a way to offer a small token of your appreciation to their teachers as the school year comes to a close. I've made a small round up of quick sews for teacher gifts.
Oh, and I almost forgot to announce the winner of the giveaway. Check the bottom of this post to find out if you won!
1. Insulated Lunch Bag
I'm loving this wonderfully cliche apple fabric from Satin Moon Quilted Garden, and I thought it would make a perfect lunch bag. Teachers often don't have time to leave school for lunch, so need to pack a lunch. Why not have it in style? I followed my own free tutorial, found here.
2. Cup cozy
I started making these cozies a little over a year ago, and I have so much fun making them. There are so many ways to make them. Here is another apple one, this time the fabric is from Stay Home Fabrics. I make mine with snaps. I've seen others use buttons, and some even crochet them. They're a fun way to brighten a day, and if you add a reusable cup and a gift card to a local coffee shop, it really completes the gift.
3. Key fobs
I was first given one of these a couple of years ago, and I love mine! It's so convenient when you have your hands full, and need to keep your keys ready.
4. Glasses Case
Thread Riding Hood's Sunny Glasses Case is a wonderful pattern and so useful. There is even a printable card to go along with it that your child can colour in!
5. Small Clutch
Sometimes we all like a fancy little gift. I think the Swoon Coraline Clutch fits the bill nicely. You could make it fun and they could use it as a marker bag for the classroom, or you could dress it up for her to use for an evening out.
Now for the winner of the snappy wallet kit giveaway sponsored by Funky Monkey Fabrics! Congrats to Joanne who said "I would make this wallet for my two grandsons, they are always saying I make too much girly stuff for their sisters." Joanne, send me an email so I can get your prize out to you.
I'm thrilled to be able to offer this free bag pattern from an amazing Canadian bag designer, Celine from Blue Calla Sewing Patterns. She made this Gerbera as a companion to the Daisy Crossbody bag. Free patterns are a really great way to get familiar with a designer's writing and instruction style before buying a pattern from them. I hope you'll try this one out and get hooked on Blue Calla patterns like I have! I also got a chance to test the pattern before its release here today. This pattern certainly doesn't disappoint! It has a detachable wristlet, an interior zippered pocket, pleats and a gusset, for an overall unique and elegant design.
I used the patchwork option on the front and the optional full panel on the back of the bag. My fabrics are all from Fabric Spark. The Butterflies and leaves are part of Sarah Watson's Biology collection, the navy overlay is part of Cotton + Steel's Basics collection, and the lining is from Joel Dewberry's Notting Hill collection.
Celine likes to allow us makers to come up with interfacing combinations to suit our tastes. I used fusible fleece on the lining and craft fuse on my exterior, and I really like the results. I think Craft Fuse on the lining and Shapeflex for the exterior would be a nice combo too.
Here are some pictures of the testers' bags: Kristy at RockBabyScissors.com made this stunning rainbow Alison Glass patchwork, paired beautifully with Carolyn Friedlander's low volume Doe.
Crystal at Cloth Albatross made an awesome companion to her Daisy, both in Cotton + Steel. The picture shows the size comparison of the Gerbera and Daisy.
Download the file and get started today! You can join the Blue Calla Patterns Facebook group for inspiration and support too!
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Hi! I'm Reece and I love to sew! I'm also a mom and a wife. I love being crafty and sharing tips.
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